PrintThe Best Cheesecakes in New York (and Therefore the U.S.?)
Free at last! Free at last! My New York Times pieces are finally free at last for me and everyone else in search of the delicious. Today I'm going to update my cheesecake story.
Although I remain resolute in my belief that New York is the best cheesecake town in the country, I am open to hearing about other cities and their cheesecakes. So, Serious Eaters, if you know of any commercially available cheesecake worth shouting about, we want to hear about it. Note: Junior's is not on my best cheesecake list. Don't get me wrong. I like Junior's cheesecake just fine, but there are others I like more.
Here are a couple of choice introductory paragraphs from the Times story:
Cheesecake is one of those quintessential New York foodstuffs that in some circles is thought of as unsophisticated. Certainly its name does not roll off the tongue like tiramisù, or tarte Tatin. But cheesecake at its best is a perfect sweet—a smooth, creamy confection with only a hint of tart.
You read that correctly. Any discussion of cheesecake in New York City must begin with a few stipulations. While Italian and postmodern cheesecakes have their place in the pantheon, the proper New York cheesecake has a simple and unchanging list of ingredients: cream cheese, eggs, sugar, vanilla, and heavy cream. The result is light as gauze. It also packs the wallop of a professional boxer.
Here are seven indisputably delicious cheesecakes:
Eileen's Special Cheesecake
Eileen Avezzano's mother used to make cheesecake for special occasions. To honor that memory, and because she needed a way to support her two young children, Ms. Avezzano started baking her own version of those cheesecakes for a Queens deli owner almost 30 years ago. Eileen's cheesecake is ethereally light, and not too sweet. It's sold from one of the cutest stores in Manhattan. 17 Cleveland Place (at Kenmare Street), SoHo; 212-966-5585; eileenscheesecake.com
Mona Lisa Pastry
This place has been around for more than 90 years, and still bakes all its cheesecakes in a coal-fired brick oven. The ricotta cheesecake has a wonderfully creamy consistency and a thin golden brown crust, and it would be Italian cheesecake heaven if it weren't quite so infused with orange flavor. But the traditional cheesecake is excellent, with a custardy interior and a perfect crust. 1476 86th Street (15th Avenue), Bay Ridge, Brooklyn; 718-837-9053; monalisabakery.com
Monteleone's–Cammereri's
Even with all the sturm and drang surrounding this long-delayed Italian bakery merger, baker and owner Lenny Cristino still makes a Sicilian cheesecake in the Veniero's tradition, though with three kinds of ricotta cheese. The result is a light, moist cheesecake with plenty of body and plenty of flavor. 355 Court Street (President Street), Carroll Gardens, Brooklyn; 718-852-5600
Monte's Venetian Room
The ricotta cheesecake is so ridiculously good and creamy it's hard to believe it's not made with cream cheese. I asked an owner about that. ''What are you crazy?'' Tony Monte said. ''Does Coke tell Pepsi what they put in their soda?'' It can be ordered to go. 451 Carroll Street (between Nevins Street and Third Avenue), Carroll Gardens, Brooklyn; 718-624-8984
Porter House New York
This is the new kid on the cheesecake block. Wayne Harley Brachman takes great ungummy cream cheese from Pennsylvania and makes an amazingly light and creamy cheesecake. They serve it here with raspberry suzette sauce. 10 Columbus Circle, New York, Time Warner Center; 212-823-9500; porterhousenewyork.com
Two Little Red Hens
If I had to choose a first among equals, Christina Winkler's cheesecake at this perfect little shop on the Upper East Side would merit trumpets and shouts. Hers is the very definition of a phenomenal New York cheesecake; rich, light, and the perfect balance of sweet and tart. 1652 Second Avenue (between 85th and 86th Streets); 212-452-0476; twolittleredhens.com
Yura & Company
Yura Mohr is the most unpretentious top-drawer baker I know. I asked her how she developed her wonderfully lemony, fluffy cheesecake recipe. ''It's from a magazine,'' she said, laughing. But she wouldn't say which one. Her ''turtle'' cheesecake, with a layer of perfect caramel on top that complements the tart sour creamy taste of the cheesecake below it, is the best topped cheesecake I know. 1292 Madison Avenue (92rd Street); 212-860-1598
Photograph from iStockphoto.com
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14 Comments:
But of course I have to vote for the lovely Katz Sisters and their EYHONY (Eat Your Heart Out New York), the base cheesecake for their 120 varieties. I once videotaped Chef Helen jokingly saying that you could try a different flavor cheesecake each week for over two years, "...and then we'll give you a pair of stretchpants!" ;-)
LunaPierCook at 9:53AM on 09/27/07
Try making one yourself. A friend gave me this recipe, which must be followed precisely to achieve the shockingly rich, yet ethereal result.
Preheat oven to 325 degrees
8”x3” round cake pan, not springform)
10”x2” round cake pan for the water bath
8”circle of parchment paper
Sheet of waxed paper
9”flat plate
½ cup graham cracker crumbs
1 T butter
2 lbs cream cheese
4 eggs
1 ¾ cups sugar
2 T lemon juice
1 t vanilla
ALL INGREDIENTS MUST BE AT ROOM TEMPERATURE (out of the refrigerator for about 4 hrs)
1. Butter 8” pan and place parchment paper in pan; butter paper and then crumb pan and shake out extra crumbs
2. Cream the cheese and the sugar on medium speed until very well blended
3. Add eggs one at a time beating well after each addition
4. Add lemon juice and vanilla
5. Gradually increase speed of beater and continue beating until there are no lumps
6. Fill 8” pan with batter and bang on counter to remove air bubbles
7. Place 8” pan in 10” pan and add 1/2” boiling water to larger pan
8. Bake 1 ½-2 hrs until slightly brown on top
8. Turn off oven and leave in oven for 20 more minutes
9. Remove 8” pan to a rack to cool 4-5 hrs
10.Place sheet of waxed paper and then a plate on top of pan and invert to remove cake
11.Remove parchment paper from cake
12.Invert again onto serving platter
Serves 12 or more
Lippy at 10:44AM on 09/27/07
We recently tried cheesecake from Cheescake Machismo in Robinson Square, Albany, New York -- not too sweet, light in texture, with interesting flavor combinations. We ordered two slices for the table -- everyone wanted "just a taste" -- but we were fighting over the last mouthful!
cookbookchick at 2:37PM on 09/27/07
This recipe sounds eminently doable. If I find the time I'm going to try and do it this weekend.
Ed Levine at 2:52PM on 09/27/07
Rich cream cheese cheesecake, like the above recipe, is my all time favorite dessert. What is the BEST way to cut for nice, clean slices? I've read about dental floss & the dipping a knife in hot water methods---what really works?
JEP at 3:06PM on 09/27/07
I've used the dipping the knife in hot water method and it's worked well enough.
Ed Levine at 5:43PM on 09/27/07
Here's cheesecake-cutting advice from the good folks at baking911:
www.baking911.com/cakes/cheesecake_qanda.htm
Ed Levine at 5:51PM on 09/27/07
I also didn't mention that I really like the Cheesecake Factory's cheesecake.
Jeff Steingarten once did a blind taste test of cheesecakes and Cheesecake Factory did pretty well. It's not the best, but it's pretty damn good.
Ed Levine at 6:32PM on 09/27/07
Thanks Ed---lots of helpful, thorough info. Good reference site!
JEP at 6:36PM on 09/27/07
I hate hate hate cheesecake factory cheesecake. (Sorry Ed) It is overly processed to me.
I really dig Wayne Harley Brachman. He is a dessert artiste. I worship the ground he has covered in flour.
My favorite cheesecake of all time is Baltimore style cheesecake or smearcase. Rachel Rappaport at Coconut & Lime posted her recipe http://coconutlime.blogspot.com/2007/07/smearcase.html
I made it 2 days ago and we had it tonight. One bite and it took me right back to my childhood. Everyone should try this easy recipe that has so much flavor.
For a big show I make the Ina Garten Cheesecake
http://www.foodnetwork.com/food/recipes/recipe/0,,FOOD_9936_25282,00.html?rsrc=search
(with a few changes) I use a pate sucree crust and a put a few drops of orange oil.
I cover with lemon curd or cherries or pineapple.
JerzeeTomato at 9:42PM on 09/27/07
Ed--have you seen the two monster cheesecakes at Veniero's on 11th Street? They have a regular Italian or a Sicilian. I believe they are both ricotta based, but the simple one is much better. (I don't like candied fruit--especially the green ones.)
Besides being deliciously satisfying, subtle, and not overwhelming, the fun of it is picking your slice. You can get a small sliver or a probably a 15 pounder off of it. When I go on an eating tour in the neighborhood, it is my favorite final bite.
Margherita at 11:32AM on 09/28/07
Yes, Margherita, I really like the plain cheesecake at Veniero's as well. It's actually very similar to the one at Monteleone's in Brooklyn on Court Street.
Ed Levine at 11:35AM on 09/28/07
I'm very excited to see Two Red Hens make an appearance here. They are one of the UES's best kept (not so secret) secrets.
I've never tried their cheesecake, but you've given me reason to do so now.
If you ever decide to weigh in on Best Cupcake in NY, be sure and give them a taste--I think you'll be more than pleasantly surprised.
digitalburro at 12:22PM on 10/01/07
Give me some geographical latitude here. The best cheesecake in "metropolitan New York" is actually in Clifton, New Jersey.
Marc's CheeseCake is a small, unassuming bakery where they just happen to bake the best cheesecake I've ever eaten. Creamy and yet still heavy, a great cookie crust (it's not graham cracker, but it rocks), fresh fruits, none of that pie filling stuff. They make over 30 flavors, all incorporated into their cakes, not toppings.
BTW, they also make a dynomite three layer chocolate mousse cake, and the richest, fudgiest brownies you've ever eaten.
Foodie001 at 11:38AM on 08/03/08