Batali vs. Bittman Pasta Saucing Smackdown: Who's Right?
Yesterday Mario Batali told us in the premiere webisode of Unclogged, Serious Eats' first video series, that when you sauce pasta, it should be "noodles with a little bit of stuff."
Today in the New York Times, Mark Bittman throws down the pasta pot gauntlet and tells us exactly the opposite. He wants us to throw tons of fresh vegetables into our pasta and throw in a little bit of meat (sausage) for flavor. His reasoning:
From the point of view of the body, there's little difference between pasta and white bread (and, for that matter, biscotti); neither has much in the way of protein, vitamins, micronutrients or fiber, and all are digested quickly and may ultimately be stored as fat.
Who's right? We're going to let the Ed Levine Eats-Serious Eats community decide after the jump.
Cast your vote here. Read the Bittman piece and watch Unclogged to hear Mario fully articulate his pasta-sauce-as-condiment argument before you decide.
I don't want to sway the vote, but it should be pointed out that one of Bittman's recipes in the paper today calls for a cup of fresh coarse breadcrumbs, which might contradict his basic premise. I'm just reporting. You decide.
Who's right in the Great Pasta Saucing Debate?
A. Mario Batali
B. Mark Bittman
C. Both
D. Neither
Interestingly enough, Bittman and Batali are in Spain together as we speak shooting a PBS series about Spanish food with Gwyneth Paltrow. Maybe Paltrow should cast the deciding vote.
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34 Comments:
I'm voting for D) Neither. Between my wife and I we have six kids. Besides those individual choices, I like a lot of sauce while Mary likes minimal sauce. Pasta and sauce at our house generally either means serving "family style" where everyone gets their own or, if I'm topping with sautéed shrimp or something else, I'll plate for each person under their own direction.
LunaPierCook at 7:37AM on 10/17/07
D), Neither is correct. Food preferences are too personal of a choice to have absolute statements. If you enjoy eating ketchup on your pasta, then that's what's right for you.
I tend to cook more in the Bittman-style because I love lots of veggies. And really, for me, there's never enough sauce to dip my bread in.
Deborah L at 8:08AM on 10/17/07
I'd say C, there's plenty of room for both styles, as seen from the comments above. Sometimes I enjoy tasting the pasta dressed minimally and sometimes, I want to have a bit more sauce and other food items with my pasta.
Wonder how Lidia would weigh in. I've seen her practice both methods on her show.
hereandthe at 8:20AM on 10/17/07
one thing to remember, pasta is usually not the main course as it is in America. portion control folks! I have to agree with Mario, a little sauce as a condiment. After all would you put a half lb of butter on a baked potato, after all a starch is not supposed to be the main course, would you eat nothing for dinner but a loaf of bread?
huney_bumper at 8:28AM on 10/17/07
How about this: pasta is a main course if you make it Bittman's way - like a veg-heavy pasta salad with a protein (I use a ratio of about 1/3 pasta to 2/3 other ingredients), but it's a side if you do it Mario's way. Kinda like how bread-and-butter is a side, but a sandwich is a main. So, I suppose my answer is "C".
On a related note, I have been dabbling in whole-wheat pasta lately (was once a detractor), but unfortunately, I can only stand it - in the Bittman-esque "veg-heavy" type dishes - the texture is too weird for my taste to have it take center stage in a dish...unfortunate, since it would add nutrition to a Mario-style pasta meal.
producestories at 8:57AM on 10/17/07
Sorry huney_bumper but I'm not understanding your comparisons. When it comes to butter on a baked tater, that's not something I've made. I just chop a hunk off the stick and lob it in the general direction of the tater. But sauce for pasta can sometimes take more time to create than it does to cook the pasta itself, especially when I'm constantly tasting and adjusting its flavor. And yes, a starch can be the main course, as with pierogies filled with potato and cheese. But still ... there are so many opinions that are right for each person (including yours!) I doubt a "right" answer will come out of this.
LunaPierCook at 9:05AM on 10/17/07
In my humble opinion, both are right. There are too many variables involved- what type of pasta, what you are throwing into it and what course it is. Either way, done right, they are delicious!
Mich23 at 9:07AM on 10/17/07
they are talking about two different things: cuisine v. sustenance/health etc. neither can be wrong.
alktraz at 9:17AM on 10/17/07
i agree with alktraz. in some instances you would want your pasta sauced the way mario suggests, but there is certainly nothing wrong with making a meal out of it the way bittman suggests.
carriebwc at 9:31AM on 10/17/07
There are just people who like to drown their food in sauce. They will not change their habits just to reflect a trend.
Batali has long been a proponent of the sauce being a "condiment" to the pasta - assuming whatever pasta he is using is worth tasting on its own. American brands don't boast as much flavor as imports and this may be where the "drown it in sauce" mentality may have originated.
I am not a fan of Bittman because I could never get any of the baking recipes in "How to Cook Everything" to work. I pretty much disregard everything he has to say. I re-christened his book, "How To Cook Everything If You Already Know How To Cook Everything," because you really do need to be able to spot the recipe flaws prior to beginning the recipe.
chiff0nade at 9:37AM on 10/17/07
oh no!!! i think this is the first time i disagree with mark bittman! I am firmly planted in the batali camp on this one. i have noticed a trend lately with mark dwelling on the nutrition aspect of his food, and methinks he is spending too much time with the paltrow. maybe he has a crush and is trying to schmooze her? mark, kissing up to chicks rarely wins their affection. you're better off being confrontational dude, stop kissing up like that, it's embarrassing ;)
seyo at 9:56AM on 10/17/07
I think producestories hit the nail on the head. It depends on how you are treating the pasta -- as a side or as the main course.
Dominic
the zen kitchen
dvchurch at 10:06AM on 10/17/07
i am getting confused. isn't C and D basically the same thing? my vote is CD, or DC, which is to say C isn't more right than D and D isn't more right than C.
if you say C, that means there's more than one right answer (what i believe).
if you say D, that means the answer lies neither in the polarized extreme that are presented (that's not to say either one of them is actually polarizing, but we only have two options between A and B). thusly the result is that there is more than one right answer.
the real answer is, eat what tastes good to you.
foodinmouth at 10:31AM on 10/17/07
I vote B. I was surprised by the love fest in comments yesterday that supported A. Good sauce tastes better than noodles. When I've been served lightly sauced sides of pasta, I eat a few bites and leave it. What a waste. Give me a bunch of sauce, or a bowl of soup ok, and I'll eat the entire portion.
In short, I think that a little bit of fresh pasta is tasty, but too much is bad nutrition. They're empty carb calories that I'd rather assign to chocolate or other sweets.
kathy in oakland at 10:53AM on 10/17/07
I think both are right. I think in order to reconcile these two we have to accept that Italian and Italian-American are two separate, but related styles of cooking. One views pasta as something to be savored on its own and the other views it as a vehicle for delicious sauces. Neither are right or wrong in their own contexts. Batali cooks Italian food and Bittman doesn't really seem to cook Italian-American food per se, but its closer to that scene.
I mean just look at an Italian menu to see how pasta is viewed in that context: they call it "primi" as though its too light of a course to really be an entree. At Babbo I can usually eat a "secondi" course after having pasta. Try eating anything else after a bowl of penne with vodka sauce or some other classic pasta dish at an Italian-American restaurant. Also one can tell the difference in focus just by looking at the ways Italian-Americans refer to their food. While The Sopranos was sort of an exaggerated version of Italian-Americans, notice how when they gathered for Sunday Spaghetti and Meatballs it was almost universally referred to as Sunday Gravy (which essentially is what some Italian-Americans call meatballs and tomato sauce). They didn't need to mention the pasta because in the Italian-American context, it is often an afterthought.
The point is that when Italian-Americans came over to the US, their cooking style changed from classic old world techniques. That doesn't mean they are wrong as it appears Batali, in his overzealousness to teach Americans the Italian way to make things, wants us to believe. The Italian-American style is not the way it is not wrong or a betrayal of Italian techniques, rather an evolution. Just as you wouldn't oversauce a bowl of Spaghetti Carbonara, you wouldn't dream of not ladling on spoonfuls of sauce and big meatballs and sausage when having Spaghetti and Meatballs.
chasgoose at 11:36AM on 10/17/07
Absolutely C. Sometimes you want a big plate of perfectly dressed pasta, and sometimes you want a huge howl of crunchy veggies and some noodles. It's a big world, there's room for everyone and their pasta preferences!
theheadhen at 11:37AM on 10/17/07
I think Batali is right. That's just because I want to be difficult.
HAR!
Prairie at 12:49PM on 10/17/07
you're right about the italian-american thing. whenever i eat at an italian-american place, i always have to say "light on the sauce" because they always drown whatever it is being ordered (chicken parm sandwich, stuffed eggplant, lasagna, pastas, etc) with their insipid red sauce, aka gravy. sometimes they even seem a bit offended, and i kind of get off on that.
these are the same morons who insist on pronouncing things wrong all while telling you that they are "italian" and therefore are correct by some tenuous ancestral divine birthright, even though 99.9% of them havent even been to italy. The most common offenders are "mooozarel", "projoot", and "reeecot". they especially love truncating words of their final syllables, as if that somehow was more authentic. it's at once hilarious, infuriating and depressing.
the sopranos was a very accurate depiction of these mumblings. my favorite is "gabbagool", the way they like to pronouce capicola. Where does this idiocy come from??? the thing about the italian language is, for the most part, everything is pronounced pretty much the way its spelled. italian americans speak french better than their own supposed mother tongue.
bittman is making an argument mostly based on nutrition, and shifting the focus from the noodle to veggie. not that theres anything wrong with that. but to me it's beside the point. he's not making pasta, he's making veggies garnished with pasta. sort of like a warm variation on pasta salads. i HATE pasta salads.
seyo at 12:59PM on 10/17/07
Batali is upholding the traditional way of pasta. In Italy, pasta is not made to be a mere carrier of sauce but something unto itself to be appreciated. Hence the shapes which with their different textures have different properties.
They are then "dressed" in sauce as a woman puts on her clothes.
It is to be hoped, in this traditional way of looking at things, that the woman carrys the clothes, that the clothes (or sauce in this context) are merely a heightening of what is underneath, for the most part. Not the clothes covering the woman to the point where her clothes are what one notices instead of her.
(I'd use men as an example here so as not to be accused of sexism but women are simply more traditional in this context.)
Baked pasta dishes sometimes are different - the heavier sauces that go into a lasagna blend together with the pasta to create something different, a different balance.
But if one is talking pastas sauced at the table (or in the kitchen just before eating) then Batali has it right (or perhaps I should say "correct") in the traditional sense.
But we are Americans, and we alter everything. Nothing remains exactly traditional here. We toy with things, we play with them to find new ways that suit us and that suits our tastes. Nothing wrong with this. So Bittman is right too. But he's not "correct". If that matters. It probably shouldn't matter, with food, what is correct, most of the time. But it is good to know what is correct just in case you get stuck on a game show or something.
Karen Resta at 1:35PM on 10/17/07
I am fully in Batali's camp, mostly because I think the sauce tastes better when it doesn't drown out the pasta. I don't think pasta should just be a vehicle for soup. Basically, I find a huge bowl of tomato sauce with some pasta lurking underneath pretty unappealing.
mdp at 1:37PM on 10/17/07
Personally, I cook pasta like Bittman - load up a sauce with artichokes or brussel spouts or grilled fennel and eggplant, and the pasta itself becomes almost an afterthought. Now, homemade pasta might be overwhelmed by a strong sauce, and I wouldn't want a big bowl of processed supermarket tomato crap - but roasted winter squash with onions, broccoli, zucchini, tomato, dried cranberries, and goat cheese with a little bit of penne? It's like autumn in a bowl.
KarynMC at 2:05PM on 10/17/07
Frankly, it's your food and you can do with it what you want. However I agree with Mario that pasta when done properly is a lovely and simple thing. Pasta is like pizza wherein the crust is the star and too many toppings drown the crust into a soggy mess. To many people pasta is, like pizza, only a source of complex carbohydrates and a vehicle for toppings/sauce. A little protein, some veg and then some, separate please!, pasta with a bit of tasty sauce make a grand meal. The only time when pasta should be swimming in anything is when it's in brodo. Pasta with something as simple as oil, garlic and chilie flakes, with great pasta, will bring you to tears and show how important the noodle is to make the dish work.
Bunnyman at 2:48PM on 10/17/07
I love love love it! A pasta debate. I being 100% of italian heritage love this argument as among the italians there are different camps. I am a depends on "the pasta and sauce" camp. Some pasta tube shaped hollow will drink more sauce. Other pasta are shaped to be aside of other things and need less sauce. When I make a veggie sauce I pick the pasta to the sauce.
There is a reason for linguine and clams, orchiette and cauliflower, rigatoni and meatballs. The list could go on forever.
I am find Mario a purist as of recently. I gather that his sucess has given him a platform since he wants to bring back sexy to italian food. I only know this we are Americans and we eat what we want to eat and how we like it. My italian grandmothers would tell you to eat what was on the plate how it was prepared and that was it. Althought I fully undestand what Mario is saying and agree I have to also agree with Mark and say I understand that too.
As for Gwyneth, I am sure he has a good reason to travel Spain with her. I know as a child he lived there. I hope she eats some food while there. Nothing worse than doing a food series with someone who has 900 food restrictions (yes i am refering to some of you) I hope she is not one of those. If she is oh what a bunch of asshats pulled that rabbit out of their hat.
JerzeeTomato at 2:55PM on 10/17/07
Seyo may not know that traditionally there is no "Italian" language or way of pronunciation. Italy had/has maybe a dozen mother dialects, some more or less incomprehensible to speakers of the other. When Italy was unified, "Italian" was invented (much like Mandarin Chinese or Hindi), using the Florentine dialect as its base with substantial Roman influence. The pronunciations you object to are Southern or Sicilian (often at the peasant level, as most Italian immigrants were) and are only slight Americanizations of those dialect words.
gustoct at 3:31PM on 10/17/07
Actually, Dante is largely credited with creating the foundations of modern Italian, way back in the 14th century. The dialects do vary from region to region, but are used mostly in an informal vernacular context. The "language" spoken by italian americans is at best vestigial, the result of aculturization from integrating into american society, lack of education, and mostly just b.s. posturing.
seyo at 4:17PM on 10/17/07
D. Personal taste varies widely. Sometimes you want a bowl of pasta with a really hearty, filling sauce, and sometimes you want the clean taste of the pasta itself. As a general rule, I'm with Mario, but that doesn't rule out times when I feel the opposite.
Also, Bittman's statement about the nutritional value of pasta is way too blanket! What about whole wheat pasta, or even soba?
Christina at 5:17PM on 10/17/07
For me it also depends on how strongly flavoured the sauce is - I'd use a much greater quantity of a light tomato sauce than I would pesto for example.
Also the quality of the pasta - if it's regular supermarket/cheap imported pasta it doesn't have much flavour to drown anyway - I use that pasta for when I fancy a ton of sauce and not too much starch, and save my De Cecco (which is about four times the price of Sainsbury's pasta here - I'm a student) for aglio-olio or something else where the taste of the pasta is much more important.
I guess it's different in England though - Italian-American food doesn't really exist here (except in the truly disgusting Frankie & Benny's chain) - most of the Italian food I've eaten here has been fairly similar to that I've eaten in Italy (although I suppose that might be an artifact of having an Italian mother so being a bit of an Italian food snob! I guess some of the "Italian" chains are less authentic but I don't tend to eat in them).
joker at 5:42PM on 10/17/07
I think C. Both are right because it is really a personal preference. Personally I agree with Bittman because when I eat it, pasta is my main course, filled with tons of veggies. I never really have pasta as a side dish.
kplays at 5:53PM on 10/17/07
I totally agree with Mario and think Bittman's ideas are non-authentic Italian and cockeyed yuppy tastes. I've acquired most of my pasta cooking expertise from MB and truly feel he's got it right.
dariqueen at 6:37PM on 10/17/07
Who the hell is Mark Bittman? He doesn't sound Italian to me.
My vote: MARIO BATALI
:-)
paris221966 at 9:58PM on 10/17/07
But WHAT IS AUTHENTIC ITALIAN!?!?! For many people that is Italian-American cuisine, which is no less authentic its just not traditional italian. A plate of spaghetti and meatballs better be drowning in sauce and meatballs or else to me that isn't authentic. If I am making something in the tuscan or northern Italian styles than it better be only kissed with sauce or else that isn't authentic either.
chasgoose at 12:06AM on 10/18/07
I say it's much like Chinese food with rice.
Old country style Chinese is full of strong flavors, fat and salt. It's delicious eaten in small portions with a huge amount of steamed rice. But modern American style Chinese is more a standalone dish that can be eaten with just enough rice to support it on a plate.
Potent pasta sauce full of strong flavors, and salty is to be used in moderation with a lot of pasta. But mild American style sauce can be eaten with just a little pasta added for texture.
peekpoke at 1:45AM on 10/21/07
Geeeeeeeeze! All this who-ha about Italian vs Italian American! You'd think either one was homogeneous. Venetian pasta and saucing is different from Sicilian, Piedmontese differs from Neapolitan... and where your grandmother came from shapes the tastes of your perception of Italian American. Hell, even Chef Boy-Ar-Dee (aka Boiardi) from your childhood (or worse, Franco American) helped shape your opinon. Some of you act as if your sophistication sprang full-blown on your 21st birthday.
Instead, isn't it enough to acknowledge that Batali has a bias toward AUTHENTIC Italian -- and more specifically, probably, Tuscan. Perhaps tempered by the Bastianich Istrian influences (which are sometimes in history Croatian.) And unless I miss my guess Mark Bittman's grandmother's pasta probably had its roots in kugel. And he adjusts his recipes to the (generic) American palate and to American obsession with increasing fiber and protein and reducing fats and carbs.
Ultimately, there is no right or wrong way. It just has to taste good. If not, the insinkerator doesn't really care what it tastes like.
capcooks at 1:36PM on 10/22/07
Goodness. Too many things to read. I think that you're just not comparing apples with apples here. Fresh pasta itself is perfect, needs very little flavoring, etc. So Batali makes sense. Especially if you've had his cacio e pepe pasta.
Bittman is discussing what's good for your health. It's definitely an American school of thought. Pasta as one of many ingredients in a dish. Still, there are lots of delicious dishes w/ pasta that aren't pasta-focused.
suzin910 at 12:11PM on 10/30/07