Best Bakeries in New York City
Here's a baker's dozen plus two of my favorite bakeries in New York. Are they the best fifteen in Gotham? You tell me.
As the northeast weather turns colder and Thanksgiving approaches this man's attention turns to baked goods. Of course it doesn't take much to get me thinking about pies, cakes, cookies, and any other food item containing the holy trinity of butter, sugar, and flour. That smell, that wondrous, incredibly alluring bakery smell, is what I live for. If I'm feeling blue, that smell transports me to a better, happier place.
New York City happens to be home to more great bakeries per square block than any other city in the country. Why? A couple of reasons. New York has long been the first stop in America for an incredibly diverse ethnic groups. Many of those ethnic groups, the Germans, the Russian and Polish Jews, the Hungarians, the Austrians, the southern Italians, and even in smaller number the French settled here at different points starting at the turn of the twentieth century. Many of these folks brought incredibly rich baking traditions with them.
During the eighties, however, as ethnic enclaves began to break down and disperse, many of the great ethnic bakeries of New York closed. French bakeries like Dumas, Bonte, and Colette shut their doors. So did the great Hungarian bakeries Riga and Mrs. Herbst's. Ditto for great Jewish-style bakeries like Litchtman's and Grossinger's.
As I've written before, supermarkets took over as our principal places to buy baked goods. For baked goods in New York, the eighties were dark days indeed. All that was left were Italian bakeries in Italian neighborhoods in all five boroughs and a few neighborhood bakeries like Glaser's (amazingly, still open) and Kramer's (unfortunately closed) that hung on by their flour-coated fingernails.
Then two things happened that explain the bakery boom today in New York. Maury Rubin, a young television producer turned French-trained baker, opened the first City Bakery. He brought serious baking skills and a finely honed personal baked good aesthetic (think Mondrian mixed with Lenotre) to Gotham and in so doing created a community of baked-good lovers who could go to City Bakery, hang out, chew the fat, and have one of Rubin's amazing tarts washed down with a hot chocolate.
Rubin's success, though significant, could not singlehandedly create the conditions for New York's bakery boom. The boom needed another catalyst, and it got one with the exploding New York restaurant scene. New York's restaurant boom that began with the Jams, the Union Square Cafe, Montrachet, created an entire community of freshly trained young pastry chefs who combined French baking techniques with a love for high quality homey American-style baked goods. Brownies and cookies shared centerstage on pastry menus with warm apple tarts and and tarte tatins. The burgeoning pastry chef scene created an army of young pastry entrepreneurs who longed to call their own shots (or should I say cookies) in their own bakeries.
Today the New York bakery scene has never been healthier. Classic ethnic bakeries in East Harlem and Bensonhurst are still beloved by their communities, and new high-quality bakeries seem to be opening every week in both new and established gentrified neighborhoods.
Here's a baker's dozen plus two of my favorite bakeries in New York. Are they the best fifteen in Gotham? You tell me. My criteria is that they make at least three transcendently delicious items. It also helps, though it's not essential, if the owner can be spotted hanging around presiding over his or her baked goods.
Have I missed any? Let me know. Next week I will cut it down to my top ten, the week after that, my top five, and finally my top three the week after that. But don't wait for a post on my single best bakery in New York. I could never choose. It would just be too hard.
Two Little Red Hens (Upper East Side): Cheesecake, Pies, Birthday Cakes
Trois Pommes Patisserie (Park Slope): Sticky Bun, Chocolate Chip Scone, Pumpkin Cheesecake (pictured, above)
Sweet Melissa's (Park Slope, Carroll Gardens): Butterscotch Pudding, Pie, Tarts
Yura (Upper East Side): Angel Food Cake, Apple Crisp, Pie
City Bakery (Flatiron): Tarts, Cookies, Hot Chocolate
Bouchon Bakery (Midtown West): Chocolate Bouchons, Peanut Butter Cookie, Autumn Harvest Danish
Soutine (Upper West Side): Chocolate Concorde Cake, Muffins, Birthday Cakes
Duane Park Patisserie (Tribeca): Turnovers, Brownies, Birthday Cakes
Andre's Hungarian (Upper East Side, Rego Park, Queens): Strudel, Rugelach, Kugelhof
Payard (Upper East Side): New York, New York Cake, Manhattan Tower, Lemon Pound Cake
Amy's (Chelsea Market, Hell's Kitchen, Greenwich Village): Layer Cake, Scones,
Mitchel London (Upper East Side) : Rustic Apple Tarts, Cupcakes, Tarte Tatin
Once Upon A Tart (Soho): Fruit Tarts, Biscotti, Brownies
Margaret Palca Bakes (Carroll Gardens/Red Hook): Rugelach, Apple Squares, Decorated Butter Cookies
E.A.T. (Upper East Side): Marble Cake, Carrot Cake, Pie
Also worth noting:
Almondine (Dumbo)
Baked (Red Hook)
Marquet Patissierie (East Village)
Patisserie Margot (Upper West Side)
Sarabeth's (Upper West Side and Chelsea Market):
Little Pie Company (Hell's Kitchen, Grand Central Station):
Black Hound (East Village)
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41 Comments:
Great list Ed. You certainly move quickly.
FoodBoy at 10:12AM on 11/02/07
Trois Pommes Patisserie-tried it, was not impressed , but I did not try the products you mentioned. I guess I'll go back.
Soutine- I interned there, and I agree the baked goods are excellent. I just wish they would clean up their kitchen.
Does the Doughnut Plant count? I know they only make a single category, but they do it well.
It is interesting that you did not name the usual suspects- Magnolia, Buttercup and Crumbs. I agree that these are mostly hype and fluff.
Mich23 at 10:13AM on 11/02/07
Being from Brooklyn and an aficionado of all things sweet, Baked definitely ranks way up there for me, although sometimes the retro-craze is a little too much for me. The City Bakery, despite the high prices, is definitely worth the splurge at times. (I was certainly spoiled when I interned there and took home pretzel croissants, giant double-chocolate cookies, and tarts for half-price or free!)
I also feel it would be appropriate at this point to plug a relatively new spot that just opened in my neighborhood - Joyce Bakeshop. Their cookies and scones are particularly delicate and wonderful.
Has anyone ever had something from the Treats Truck? If so, how was it?
emmab at 10:22AM on 11/02/07
Great list!
For those of us who consider Brooklyn to be part of New York I'd add Gribouille: Patisserie Traditionnelle in Williamsburg for the real deal croissants and éclairs (sadly they stopped making religieuses, which were as good as any I'd ever had in Paris).
Ann Fisher at 10:23AM on 11/02/07
Another notable on the Upper West Side: Levain (164 W. 74th) for sublime chocolate chip cookies (the oatmeal raisin are pretty wonderful too), excellent breads and tasty flatbread pizzas.
Cathy at 10:40AM on 11/02/07
You left out the Silver Moon Bakery on B'way and 105th. They make some of the best breads and pastries I've had on this side of the Atlantic. They are a real bakery, in that they operate around the clock, and they bake everything on premises. And you can observe this for yourself if you are a night owl. Late at night when everyone is already in bed, there is someone there, on the other side of the glass, knocking down, cutting and weighing balls of dough to be baked.
They have a steady stable of French, Italian, American and sometimes Jewish (although no bagels or bialies) bakery items, sweet and savory pastries, plus a daily specials list (challah on Saturdays for example).
I've recently become bread obsessed thanks to the no-knead bread recipe Mark Bittman helped to disseminate, and I always have them to measure myself up to.
seyo at 11:01AM on 11/02/07
For the city's best apple turnover Tarrallucci e Vino cannot be beat.
theheadhen at 11:29AM on 11/02/07
I've actually been consistently disappointed by the things I've tried at Silver Moon. I've been there a couple of times in the last few months and I've never found anything truly delicious. Maybe I've been getting the wrong stuff there.
Ed Levine at 11:29AM on 11/02/07
We should do an apple turnover taste-off between Tarrallucci (aren't there too many double letters in there?) and Duane Park Patisserie. That would be fun.
Ed Levine at 11:31AM on 11/02/07
Sullivan St. Bakery (@ Gran Daisy)? I've only been once, but I got six items to split with my family, and each one was amazing.
Christina at 12:01PM on 11/02/07
I think of both Sullivan St. Bakery and its offshoot GrandDaisy as bread bakeries first and foremost, though I agree with you their baked goods are quite extraordinary. It seems like every time I walk in there they have a new baked good to try.
Ed Levine at 12:04PM on 11/02/07
No Italian bakeries? A good sfogliatelle beats just about anything.
As for Black Hound--worst service ever. Special ordered a cake that was never made, when I arrived to pick up a last-minute replacement--at the precise time I was told to be there--they would not open their doors.
Barbara Hanson at 12:17PM on 11/02/07
I agree with many of your top picks, but my favorite patisserie wasn't on your list: La Bergamote in Chelsea. They have great vienoisserie.
Irene at 12:19PM on 11/02/07
I agree with you about Black Hound. They're really flaky. They do make some great things, when they actually make them, that is. I've never had a great sfogliatelle in New York. I had a couple still warm in Naples that were amazing Where do you like the sfogliatelle in NYC? In general I must admit I am not a huge fan of the kinds of southern Italian bakeries found in Bensonhurst, Williamsburg, little Italy, or even the east village.
Ed Levine at 12:22PM on 11/02/07
emmab - big fan of the Treats Truck right here!! everything that i have had is absolutely delicious. personal favorites are the mexican chocolate brownie, oatmeal jammy and the big rice krispie....hmm....wonder where the truck is today. i want a jammy right now :)
ceforrester at 12:23PM on 11/02/07
What are vienoisserie? La Bergamote is right near Serious Eats World Headquarters, and a few weeks ago I picked up one of just about everything they had. When we tasted all the stuff, it was clear that some things were better than others, but for the life of me I can't remember any of the standouts. Care to steer us in the right direction?
Ed Levine at 12:25PM on 11/02/07
I'm a big fan of Financier's Opera. They do several things very well--I love their financiers, and anything they make with almond cream.
http://www.financierpastries.com/menus-pastries.cfm
dbdtron at 1:07PM on 11/02/07
I think Pinisi Bakery needs to find it's way on that list! Cakes (red velvet! pistachio cheesecake! carrot cake!...) tarts, pies (an insanely good pecan pie! pumpkin pie!). Reliable and consistently fresh cheese danishes and fresh fruit muffins. And owned by two of the most friendly people in this world - that's hard to beat! :)
Kathy YL Chan at 1:14PM on 11/02/07
Something Sweet in the East Village (Second Ave., at 11th Street) for cookies and Eastern European pastries
Lippy at 1:19PM on 11/02/07
i liked the sticky bun and pumpkin cheesecake at Trois Pommes too. good stuff.
foodinmouth at 1:24PM on 11/02/07
I like Moishe's Bake Shop in the East Village for their ginormous deathly hamentashen. Their other cookies are kinda huge too. The only other thing I've had there is a chocolate cigar...which was also huge and deathly.
MM TASTY!!!
roboppy at 2:36PM on 11/02/07
Viennoiserie are pastries made from yeasted laminated doughs. La Bergamote's croissants, pain au chocolat, pain au raisin, are great examples. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Viennoiserie
As for sfogliatelle, I had an excellent one from a bakery in the Arthur Avenue neighborhood in the Bronx, though I cannot remember the name.
I LOVE Moishe's black and white.
Irene at 2:46PM on 11/02/07
Claude's in the West Village for pain au chocolat, croissants, almond-apricot croissants, raisin rolls and delicious eclairs. Claude, who is always there, is the very model of a neighborhood artisanal baker.
condiment at 2:49PM on 11/02/07
Ed, the stuff I like from them are the crusty breads (ciabattas, pains de campagne), the brioche and challah, the baguette, and they make really good fruit and custard tarts.
seyo at 3:04PM on 11/02/07
I like Claude's too. Claude is always there, but he's really moody in my experience.
Ed Levine at 4:22PM on 11/02/07
Don't know the name of the bakery where I had sfogliatelle warm from the oven, but it was on Court Street, across the street from the Cobble Hill movie theate, down the block to the left if you're standing with your back to the theater. I grew up in a neighborhood full of Italian bakeries, but this one blew me away.
Oh, and how could I forget Moishe's sugar kichel? Ask for one with dark edges.
Barbara Hanson at 4:32PM on 11/02/07
i also love Silver Moon bakery for three reasons: ethiopian bread, chocolate chip cookies, and fruit and nut granola.
numnums at 9:31PM on 11/02/07
FYI, Yura is now called "Corner" I believe. The parent restaurant also changed names (to Corner Cafe instead of Yura cafe) but nothing seems to have changed. The scones are still great and the smell on a saturday morning is still drool worthy.
LizNYC at 1:32AM on 11/03/07
I like Veniero's cheesecake and fruit tarts (cakes are so-so), Bouley Bakery's canelle and Ceci-Cela's croissant.
thesu at 2:56PM on 11/03/07
Since we are talking about bakeries, I was wondering if any of you knew whether cake is considered pastry.
PattyCho at 8:05PM on 11/03/07
I think Cousin John's in Park Slope has excellent brioche and pecan danishes.
and Le Petit Prince in Astoria had excellent everything- croissants, cookies, fruit tarts, coffee...
traderjanki at 8:36AM on 11/04/07
yura/corner makes the most amazing delicious layer cakes, sour cherry cobbler, scones and cupcakes -- the browned butter cupcake is my favorite.
baHa, i believe you're referring to the court pastry shop. they make the most wonderful italian ices in the summer.
i love claude, too.
several people have mentioned taralucci e vino. i can't get past their cheese plate -- every time i have eaten there, i have had the best cheese i have ever eaten in the states.
cybercita at 9:21AM on 11/04/07
Ed- For anything Italian go to Angelos Royal Pastry Shop on 86th St. in Brooklyn. It is the quintessential, oldtime, neighborhood bakery. My parents have been going there since I was kid (and that's a long time).
Mich23 at 8:01AM on 11/05/07
Great list, though the last time I went to Bouchon in October the peanut butter cookie was horrible. I didn't even want to finish it. And last weekend my co-worker went there and found the same thing. That peanut butter cookie used to be one of my favorite things ever. I suspect something funky is going on at Bouchon Bakery, and I hope they get their act back together soon.
chungle at 6:30PM on 11/05/07
That's depressing about the peanut butter cookie. When it's right that cookie is crazy good. I'll try to buy one this week and report back.
Ed Levine at 10:20PM on 11/05/07
Thanks for checking up on it, Ed. Both times it was bad was later in the day on the weekend. Hopefully it'll be as good as it used to be when you go. I'm a fan of that bakery.
chungle at 7:28PM on 11/08/07
Where does one find great apple strudel? Not the kind made from filo pastry, but from the real streched out dough.
SavtaShayna at 2:07PM on 11/14/07
I actually disagree with the bad reviews of Black Hound. I got excellent service - all the people working were fantastic and very attentive, and gave my friends and I free samples to try. I didn't really like the cakes though. I don't like sweet cakes too much, but theres could have done with a bit more
csunkim at 1:04AM on 06/17/08
Mrs. Herbst's did not close because the ethnic enclave was disappearing. It close because the 3rd generation had moved on (for example, one is a physician in L.A.) and because the land had become so valuable that it was inevitable that it would be sold. But what a fabulous bakery it was. I have a loose-leaf binder with ALL of the Herbst recipes (including non-bakery food items). Long story - but my grandmpother and the original Mrs Herbst were friends in Hungary and came here at the same time. And my non-Hungarian wife can make a pretty good Dobos Torte and palascinta.
john r at 3:34PM on 07/19/08
Wow, that's an amazing story, John. Would you consider posting the recipes on Serious Eats? Maybe we can find a pastry chef who will test the recipes.
I would love to work with you on getting these recipes on Serious Eats.
Ed Levine at 4:04PM on 07/19/08
Ed - email me at rozettj@aol.com so we can talk about this privately. i have some reservations. i will tell you more and why.
John
john r at 11:18PM on 07/20/08