Ibérico Ham: Crazy Good But Worth the Price?

Jamón Ibérico has finally arrived in New York and across the country this week. Washington D.C. chef Jose Andres cut the ceremonial first slice last week.Dean & Deluca is selling it in its stores in New York, Washington, D.C., and St. Helena, California. Just call the individual stores before you make the trip to make sure it's in stock and how they are selling it. In Washington, D.C., for example, D & D is only selling whole bone-in and boneless hams at $87 a pound. The boneless ham will set you back around $400 and the bone-in ham somewhere between $1200-1400.
According to Florence Fabricant, Agata & Valentina currently has the lowest price in New York, $71.96 a pound. And if you want to buy it the way people do in Spain, that is, sliced by hand, Despana Foods in New York's Soho and Jackson Heights will do just that for $99 a pound.
But is it worth it?
I know these prices sound insane for ham, but based on my weeklong Jamón Ibérico binge in Barcelona in March, this ham is well worth it. It's the nuttiest, porkiest ham I've ever had. And this ham is not even the best, most expensive Jamon Iberico there is. Sometime next year the Jamon Iberico Bellotta, made from pigs fed only acorns, will make its way to this country, and I might have to take out a second mortgage to pay for it.
Ask for a taste before you buy any ham this expensive. In fact, ask for a taste of the Jamón Ibérico and then ask for a taste of prosciutto di Parma. This kind of side-by-side tasting will give you some much-needed context for judging Jamón Ibérico. You may decide to stick to prosciutto, but at least you'll know. For lots more info about Jamón Ibérico (maybe more than you want to know), or if you want to buy some online for delivery sometime in 2008), visit Jamon.com.
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33 Comments:
Wow... I've eaten great food on six continents and I love the tasty animal as much as anyone, but I've never had meat I thought was worth $99/lb.
deeoh1 at 9:11AM on 12/13/07
The only way to determine if it's worth it is to try it. As I said in the post see if the store will give you a taste. If you like it buy a quarter pound and put it on a baguette. So you'll spend $20-25 and if you apply it thinly to the baguette you'll get four decent-sized sandwiches out of it. The only condiment you might need for the sandwich is a little high-quality olive oil. I figure if people spend at least that much for a decent bottle of wine, they'll be willing to spend the same for some most excellent pig.
Ed Levine at 9:32AM on 12/13/07
It's nearly 10 times the price of prosciutto di parma, can it really be 10 times the quality/taste??? I'd love to try it, but I would never pay that kind of price.
jonfoxx at 9:33AM on 12/13/07
I was recently in Spain, where it seems like there are ham legs hanging from every ceiling. We did exactly what Ed recommends: walked into a shop, and bought just enough to taste. You don't need to buy a whole ham (obviously), but you owe it to yourself to at least taste a little Ibérico Ham.
Consider also that dry, cured ham like this is much lighter than normal ham--it loses most of its moisture in the curing process. So a few slices really aren't that heavy. That's why I'm okay with spending more per pound on good cured meats, because generally the longer they cure, the higher quality they are, and the less they weigh.
Blake Royer at 9:59AM on 12/13/07
How stupid. (No offense). I'd never pay $99/pound for ham.
suburbangourmet at 10:09AM on 12/13/07
jonfoxx, the price comparison between prosciutto di parma vs Jamón Ibérico does not mean one thing tastes 10 times better. not sure food really works that way. instead it is about whether you are willing to pay 10x the price to have the opportunity to taste it. as far as a price thing goes, i am hoping the amount imported will increase and maybe the supply will drive the price down slightly.
foodinmouth at 10:17AM on 12/13/07
How big is it's carbon footprint?
srhcb at 10:18AM on 12/13/07
At lunch yesterday in DC, and a chef was ooh-ing and aahh-ing over the fancy swine. Then her pig farmer from Charlottesville walked in to drop off a pork chop delivery, and he was like "oh, cool."
Erin Zimmer at 10:28AM on 12/13/07
Obviously it's not 5X "better" than a really good Parma prosciutto (which is $20 per pound in my town) but I doubt that people who are willing to spend that kind of money would claim that it's THAT much better. It rarely gets discussed much outside of the context of high end restaurant meals but there is a law of diminishing returns with food items just as there is one with audio products. Once you get to the high end there is a geometric increase in price for what we might consider to be much smaller linear increases in quality.
As for me.... I'll gladly pay 4X as much for Parma Prosciutto than I would for supermarket deli ham. But $100 per pound for Iberico? Only if it's someone else's treat.
phaelon56 at 10:50AM on 12/13/07
"The nuttiest...ham I've ever had"? The only thing nutty are the people who pay $99.00 a pound for it. What do you do with it, anyway? Slap it on rye bread with swiss cheese and mustard? I don't care if it was cured at the Mayo clinic, this is asinine.
RichardCrystal at 10:52AM on 12/13/07
I think these kinds of discretionary spending decisions are irrational and personal by definition. Some people splurge on an article of clothing or wine or first edition books. Spending $25 on a quarter of a pound of ham seems like a rather modest way to indulge yourself. I am the kind of person who would never spend a thousand dollars on a suit. I could care less about the kind of car I drive or even rent. But I will spend $22.00 for one of Anthony Mangieri's pizza or $25 for a half pound of great chocolate because those kinds of things are my idea of an affordable indulgence. Other people would never spend $25 on some ham. To each his own.
Ed Levine at 11:07AM on 12/13/07
Well said Ed... having lived in Spain, and experiencing some of the best food, I have to say that while perhaps this jamon purchase is something i won't be doing every sunday, it's sort of like saffron, "azafran". Both are very expensive, but are always used sparingly in very small amounts.
Seriously, a few thin slices of jamon with slices of manchego on a loaf of bread is all i would need to tide me over! Maybe a few olivas on the side..... hmmm... i miss jamon!
chlamers at 11:27AM on 12/13/07
Oh, Man. In my opinion it's worth it. It's not like you have to get a pound if it seems crazy to you, but by all means, please get a 1/4 lb. and have it in the best crusty bread you know. No need for butter, or any other condiment. In Barcelona last spring, the Jamon Iberico blew my husband and me away. Incredibly tasty and complex. It is a luxurious treat, but again, totally worth it.
JustNancy at 11:27AM on 12/13/07
Ed, I know you are taking a lot of "flack" on this but this is a food blog and it's interesting to know what is happening in the world of food. I have never bought designer clothes but love looking at them...the same with the ham, I won't buy it but I like knowing.
elaine nan at 12:54PM on 12/13/07
Is there a chance that once all the hype dies down that so will the price of the ham? I just brought back some shrink wrapped bellota in my suitcase with no problem. Best if you know if someone who is traveling to Spain or Portugal (El Corte Ingles is a department store in both countries) can do the same for you.
chanbny at 3:32PM on 12/13/07
How much did you pay for the bellota over there? I was trying to remember what I paid in Barcelona for the best Bellota at the Boqueria. Is it possible I paid 75 Euros a Kilo? I just don't remember.
Ed Levine at 3:38PM on 12/13/07
Dean and Deluca is selling "bellota" for $75/lb in NYC. It is awesome. However, no other provider has bellota and it's not even supposed to be in the US until next year. Is Dean and Deluca lying?
kathryn at 4:05PM on 12/13/07
That is a good question, Kathryn. We should give them a pig detector test.
Ed Levine at 4:08PM on 12/13/07
I could definitely see buying slices at that rate, spendy as it is. I am obsessed with fine and unusual meats and jamon iberico is up there at the top: Keep in mind that you are paying for the breed of pig (rare, black-footed pigs), the feed (acorns are an expensive way to finish an animal), and the time it takes to cure this ham, which can run upwards of two years. Not to mention the skill involved in the whole process.
BUT, $1,200 for a whole ham would be stupid to buy for anyone but a millionaire who entertains a lot: It will dry out and lose quality by the time you can eat it all. And this is NOT a ham you want to hack hunks off for those pots o' beans or collards! Probably the best thing would be to get a bunch of people together to buy a whole ham at the cheaper price, then dividing it up. I'd like to be a fly on the wall for the fight over the bone at the end!!!
HunterAnglerGardenerCook at 4:08PM on 12/13/07
I have yet to be introduced to the praised Ibérico but I'd plop down 20-25 for a quarter pound. Plenty of ways to put that money to good use. First is to call up a couple friends and tell them you purchased a 1/4 lb. of one of the most expensive hams in the world. If they want to try it, bring a few bottles of wine and other stuff to nibble on.
Baguette sandwiches as some suggested; no other toppings or condiments. Or I bet you could wrap quite a few cubes of melon. Or make a platter with roasted red peppers and olives then drizzle olive oil all over.
So for a minimum of 20 dollars you get have a good time with friends and say that you have tried something unique. Regardless of whether or not it lives up to the hype, that's not a bad deal.
Asado at 4:20PM on 12/13/07
I think Ed's got the deep idea right. Just as you have the right to choose your "poison", you have the right to choose your ambrosia. And everyone else has the right to look at you funny when you do! Or not, as the case may be. These things are not purely rational, unless you pay more for something you like less when given the choice.
gustoct at 6:28PM on 12/13/07
It's for sale at HEB Central Market in San Antonio for $99.99 a pound.
dksbook at 6:51PM on 12/13/07
Ed - I hope my first comment (the very first one) wasn't taken as giving you "flack" about this. I agree with your assessment... "to each his own". Me? I can't imagine paying that much for ham, but then again many might think I'm nuts due to the amount of money I spend on wine. And knives... lots and lots of beautiful Japanese knives.
deeoh1 at 8:35AM on 12/14/07
I didn't perceive it as you giving me flack. I 've really enjoyed this whole thread. I am thinking about going to Dean & Deluca today and getting a quarter pound of the Jamon Iberico and a baguette.
Ed Levine at 10:44AM on 12/14/07
Interesting thread!
I fell in love with jamon when on holiday in Spain a few years back (I'm from the UK) It is still pretty expensive stuff, even over here - but to me it's worth it for a treat. When I pay that much money though, I don't make a sandwich - just a platter of jamon, some smokey cheese, and olives. Add a glass of wine, and that's my heaven!
kittie at 11:21AM on 12/14/07
Another amazing way to eat jamon (with bread!):
Split your bagette in half, you can optionally toast the cut side. Rub the cut side with a split clove of garlic, then follow by rubbing it with a wedge of tomato so the bread soaks up the tomato juices. Season with a little salt and fresh ground black pepper and place the slices of ham on the top.
kittie at 11:39AM on 12/14/07
Gothamist reports that Despana is out but about to get more (it is literally going through customs at the airport).
http://gothamist.com/2007/12/14/expensive_ham_u.php
Someone on Chowhound called up Dean and Deluca and confirmed that it IS NOT bellota, which is the opposite of what Grub Street confirmed earlier this week. D'oh.
kathryn at 12:51PM on 12/14/07
I just returned from 10 days in Spain. Crazy good wine and food! I was in Madrid, Rioja, Ribero del Duero & Barcelona. On the topic of the price of iberico....I agree with Ed. Order some and see if you like it--keep it simple. I wouldn't even bother with bread. Spread a few thin freshly sliced slices out on a plate and drizzle it with some good olive oil. Get a fork and twirl it on the fork--at room temperature. Put the fork in your mouth and chew slowly...savoring it's deliciousness. I think it trumps Italian prosciutto (although the best of that comes from Le Marche and isn't available in the US yet--carpegna and I have not had it). Bellota is in a league of it's own....unbelieveable! Porky richness and silkiness that has to be tasted to be believed! The finest ham on earth in my opinion!
kevinpen at 1:16AM on 12/15/07
I just finished reading a few more of the posts in this topic and I think a few things need clarification:
Jamon Iberico is not finished on acorns. It is finished on it's normal feed. Bellota is finished on acorns.
Like I said in my previous post....I would skip the bread (and melon and anything else) and enjoy the Iberico on it's own with a few drops of good (ideally Spanish) olive oil. I would certainly precede or follow the ham with the pan con tomate that another poster suggested. Just my opinion.....
kevinpen at 1:38AM on 12/15/07
And one other thing...bear with me...I'm on a roll! I have recently tasted the Prosciutto Americano from La Quercia in Norwalk, Iowa. This ham is outstanding....rivalling the best prosciutto from Italy (with the possible exception of the carpegna which, again, I have not had a chance to taste). It is more similar to Jamon Iberico than Prosciutto di Parma in it's porky flavor and silky texture. It is processed from Berkshire-bred pigs in Iowa (pork capital of the US) and less salt is used in the process resulting in a "porkier" taste. If I were to rank all of these I would say 1) Bellota 2) Jamon Iberico/La Quercia in a tie 3) Parma and they are all outstanding!
kevinpen at 1:52AM on 12/15/07
It seems weird to me that there are so many people that are kibbitzing about the cost. I mean, I won't pay more than 15 bucks for a haircut, and I can't think of the last time I paid more than $20 for a single article of clothing, but Iberico? I'd shell out for a quarter pound, at least. Piggy deliciousness! Prioritize, people!
Ravara at 1:27PM on 12/15/07
i had iberico ham while in europe -- i was visiting friends in spain -- and i'd have to agree it's something totally special and worth the splurge. especially since you don't have to eat mass quantities to be satisfied.
cybercita at 10:33PM on 12/16/07
I'll go on record and say I didn't think it was anything special. It was good but it wasn't particularly nutty or 'porky'. $20 for 1/4 pound was overpriced. I'd pay maybe $10.
chaevans at 10:58PM on 07/06/08