Posted by Robyn Lee, May 1, 2008 at 2:30 PM

David Chang (left) and David Chan (right) have a little more in common than their professions. Photograph of David Chang from Desperate ChefsWives of NYC | Photograph of David Chan from Grand Street News
This morning a friend tipped me off to the existence of David Chan, a restaurateur in New York City who runs LES Sushi and Wa Lung Kitchen and happens to bear a striking resemblance to another New York City restaurateur, Momofuku kingpin David Chang. It's not uncommon for Asians to have the same or similar names (I used to receive messages on Facebook meant for another NYU student named Robyn Lee; how confusing), but as my friend pointed out, "These two look alike and are both restaurateurs; thats creepy." I can't wait for them to meet so that the universe can explode. [Thanks to Mitch Weinstein, LES food czar, for the link.]
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Posted by Ed Levine, September 14, 2006 at 1:56 PM
Adam Roberts, AKA the Amateur Gourmet, had the temerity, the nerve, to expect a warm reception when he took his parents to the new Le Cirque. Needless to say, he was treated rather shabbily by Sirio
himself. Not a big surprise, obviously, but his account is pitch perfect. My favorite moment: When Adam spots Sirio, he says to his parents, "See that guy over there. He's the one who will determine our worth."
What's especially fascinating is son Mauro Maccioni's response to Adam's blog post. His bristling defensiveness knows no bounds. What's interesting is that Mauro never directly responds to Adam's description of the indignities the Roberts family suffered at the hands of the restaurant's staff, including Sirio himself. I should say that the Maccionis know who I am, so I am often treated well when I go to their restaurants, but I have certainly been treated shabbily on occasion and had bad food at various incarnations of Le Cirque.
Mauro's churlish response reminded me of the time when Times reviewer Biff Grimes gave one of the Maccioni restaurants a less than stellar review, and Sirio responded by making a gratuitously insulting remark about Grime's wife.
What does this tell us? Are the Maccionis only gracious on cue?
Posted by Ed Levine, April 23, 2006 at 1:07 PM
Charles Gabriel, perhaps NYC's finest fried chicken practitioner, has expanded south from his base at 151st St. and Eighth Avenue (Charles Southern Kitchen:212-926-4313) to 109th and Broadway, where he is cooking his very fine bird at Rack & Soul (2818 Broadway, 212-222-4800). He was in good form last night, when our party of five descended on the simple but comfortable space restaurateur Michael Eberstadt has built to house Charles & company and a smoker fueled by wood and gas installed by competition barbecue man John Wheeler.
Charles' bird was golden brown, greaseless, and crunchy and crispy on the outside and moist and tender on the inside. In short, it is everything I want fried chicken to be. Wheeler's ribs were messy, satisfying baby backs, but the very sweet glaze they were coated with almost completely obscured whatever smoky taste the Old Hickory brand smoker imbued them with. My wife's fried catfish was fried just as skillfully as the chicken, though its crispy exterior could have benefited by a shake or two of salt.
Sides: very good beans studded with tons of pork, standard macaroni and cheese that could have used a little tang and a little more cheese, solid cole slaw that wasn't overwhelmed by mayo or sugar, tender (not al dente) stringbeans that tasted like they were cooked with meat as well, lovely soulful potato salad, by the numbers candied yams, collard greens that I forgot to taste, and (get this) a waffle that was crisp on the outside and tender on the inside, much like the fried chicken. I like any place that offers a waffle as a side dish.
All this food was preceded by very good corn muffins with a honey glaze, and succeeded by moist pieces of red velvet cake and pineapple cake from a local Harlem bakery (I believe the owner said he got them from Let Them Eat Cake). They're still working out the kinks in the service (our food took a long time to come), but the staff was pleasant and well-meaning. When Dirty Bird to Go opens, I look forward to comparing its fried chicken to Charles'.